Happy New Year to all!!
May the new year be better for everyone!
This site is dedicated to the creation of wargames terrain for table top and roleplaying games, both science fiction and fantasy. I focus on the creation of wargames terrain that looks realistic, but is inexpensive to make from easy to get materials for those who don't want to pay a fortune for their battlefields. I will also include my own armies, painting techniques, and the occasional win (I'm a horrible player). For more, visit my website: http://creativeminiaturehobbies.com
Friday, December 31, 2010
Friday, December 24, 2010
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Tip of the Month
Every month, I'll give an easy tip for you fellow scenery builders. This may be something that everyone knows or something completely new (remember, there are still a lot of beginners out there).
This month is about glue. "That's an easy one", you say? Most people use the old standby: white glue. But there are other alternatives out there. Lets have a look, shall we.
This is the most common glue. Every school kid uses it for all their craft stuff, so why not us? White glue is good: its easy to apply, dries clear, and gives a good bond on any porous surface. It also is easy to dilute with water for bigger applications.
The drawback: its a bit runny and takes a while to dry completely. If the surface is dry, the inner layers may still be wet, so wait at least 24 hours for a complete cure, especially on thick applications. If there are dribbles on your surface, it will not accept paint.
Super glue/crazy glue/Cyanoacrylate. Whatever you call it, this glue is good for keeping non-porous items together. Works on plastic, resin, and body parts. Can be sanded down like resin if there is too much on the surface. Accepts paint very well.
Cons: Only good for spot applications. A small building is fine; an entire model city with skyscrapers and the price can become excessive. Does not work well on wood or paper based products as the liquid from the glue is absorbed into the material.
This is almost like white glue, but used primarily for wood (as the name implies). Easy to use as its thicker than white glue but dries in less time. This is the best to used with foam board, balsa wood (or any type of wood), sand, foam, and just about anything else (except plastics). This is the main type of glue that I use and prefer. Gives a strong bond with foam board, won't warp any wood that you are using, and can be diluted with water for larger applications. I usually use this when basing my game boards. Just water down, use a big brush to spread, add sand, let dry. That's it.
The drawback: like white glue, it does not accept paint well (primers work on it) and does not dry clear.
There are other glues out there that I may not have covered: tacky glue, spray adhesives, hot glue, etc. These are useful but I have found them to be limited in usage when building scenery. Many of the above glues will last (even extended) for a long time so it doesn't hit your wallet too hard.
As you can see, I prefer using wood glue in most of my scenery builds for the walls, basing, and filling gaps as well.
This month is about glue. "That's an easy one", you say? Most people use the old standby: white glue. But there are other alternatives out there. Lets have a look, shall we.
 |
| WHITE GLUE |
The drawback: its a bit runny and takes a while to dry completely. If the surface is dry, the inner layers may still be wet, so wait at least 24 hours for a complete cure, especially on thick applications. If there are dribbles on your surface, it will not accept paint.
 |
| SUPER GLUE |
Cons: Only good for spot applications. A small building is fine; an entire model city with skyscrapers and the price can become excessive. Does not work well on wood or paper based products as the liquid from the glue is absorbed into the material.
 |
| PLASTIC CEMENT |
Just like the name says, its good for plastic. It works by melting the plastic on both pieces and re-solidifies creating a strong bond. But won't work on any other surface, including resin (it may work on some resins, but does not give a strong bond). Easy to use but don't use too much. A little goes a long way. Just put a little bit on one piece and on the other piece. Press together for about 20 seconds. Will cure in about four hours with a very strong bond. As with with white glue, any dribbles on the surface will not accept paint so you have to file or sand it off before hand.
 |
| WOOD/CARPENTER'S GLUE |
The drawback: like white glue, it does not accept paint well (primers work on it) and does not dry clear.
There are other glues out there that I may not have covered: tacky glue, spray adhesives, hot glue, etc. These are useful but I have found them to be limited in usage when building scenery. Many of the above glues will last (even extended) for a long time so it doesn't hit your wallet too hard.
As you can see, I prefer using wood glue in most of my scenery builds for the walls, basing, and filling gaps as well.
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